Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
